Turkey's hidden gem: Akyaka, a beach resort frozen in time, captivates with its rustic allure.
I vividly recall my most cherished memory of Akyaka. On our recent trip, the beach glowed under the fading embers of a fiery sunset, while the surrounding mountains softened into a deep purple embrace. As the sun set, the scene transformed: sunbeds were stacked away, and waiters bustled about, setting up tables, menus, and lamps. A trio of Turkish women, their hair a blend of pepper and smoke, sat contentedly knitting with their toes in the sand. This peaceful scene contrasted sharply with other Turkish beaches frequented by the wealthy and famous. I knew then that Akyaka was a special place.
Akyaka, nestled on the eastern edge of the azure Gökova Bay, has been a familiar haven for me since my days as a holiday rep thirty years ago. Back then, it already possessed the same charming character it does today, a rarity among Turkish villages and resorts that have undergone significant changes since the mid-1990s.
While Akyaka has evolved, with more homes and hotels, an expanded beach, and a newfound popularity for kitesurfing, it retains its laid-back, slightly disheveled, and genuinely authentic atmosphere. This is partly due to its designation as one of Turkey's 'slow towns,' an initiative aimed at preserving local traditions, enhancing quality of life, and avoiding the pitfalls of excessive tourist development. The town's unique vibe also owes much to the Turkish poet and architect Nail Çakirhan, who retired there in 1971 and built a house that seamlessly blended Ottoman design with local materials. His influence sparked a revival of local crafts, particularly carpentry, and by the 1990s, his architectural standards were adopted for most new properties. The result is a town adorned with elegant houses, their wood-carved balconies overflowing with bougainvillea, untouched by modern glass-walled structures.
In 2022, I returned to Akyaka for a proper visit with my husband, Mark, and we were instantly smitten. The absence of large all-inclusive or sprawling resort hotels ensures that Akyaka remains a haven for Turkish tourists. They flock to the fish restaurants along the sparkling Azmak River, hike the forest trails that ascend from the western end of the beach, or simply relax on the beach, knitting the day away.
Our preferred accommodation is the İskelem Otel, located on the opposite side of the pine forest, a short drive from the town. Initially, we were unsure about the sunbeds on the wooden jetty and the lawned area instead of a beach. However, the warm welcome from Müjgan, the delightful receptionist, the stunning views from our room, and the swift arrival of ice-cold Efes beer quickly dispelled any doubts. At night, the İskelem transforms, much like Akyaka's beach, as sunbeds are replaced by candlelit tables for dinner on the jetty, surrounded by the sea.
The culinary delights we've savored there are unforgettable: sea bream with crispy skin and a tangy lemon-salt flavor; spiced Adana kebabs with smooth, dense lamb; silky aubergine; garlic-infused yogurt; and baklava that leaves our fingers sticky with sugar, honey, and pistachio filling. Breakfast is equally indulgent, featuring crispy börek filled with feta cheese, piles of scarlet tomatoes and leafy parsley, honey, jams, and omelets still sizzling from the pan. I convince myself that an hour of paddleboarding will counteract the calories, while Mark, with his more active morning routine, eagerly indulges.
For Mark, Akyaka's allure is heightened by its reputation as one of the Mediterranean's premier watersports destinations. From May to November, thermic winds sweep across the gulf, rising predictably in the late morning, always onshore, typically ranging from 15 to 18 knots. Just a short drive from town, Akçapinar Beach is adorned with colorful kite-surf flags. By early afternoon, the sky becomes a canvas for dozens of vibrant canvas crescents, pulling tiny figures along in their wake. The shallow, sandy beach is ideal for beginners, whether they're trying their hand at kiting or wing-foiling.
Beyond the town and its breezy beach, there's a wealth of exploration awaiting. Göcek, with its wooden gulets and sailing ambiance, offers a sleek and stylish experience. Lake Köyceğiz, surrounded by sweetgum forests, provides a tranquil setting for gentle, shaded walks. On Thursdays, the Muğla market, the region's finest, awaits, accessible via a breathtaking drive up into the mountains, featuring switchbacks and hairpin bends. It's a world apart from the counterfeit handbags and cheap tourist markets.
In modern Turkey, discovering these authentic experiences is essential for a fulfilling holiday. The country is evolving, transforming from a mass-market summer destination into a more diverse landscape. It now caters to the super-rich with luxury resorts reminiscent of the Maldives, charging over £1,000 per night. It attracts health tourists seeking everything from hair transplants to dental veneers. And it hosts all-inclusive resorts where guests rarely venture beyond the lobby. Hyperinflation and President Erdoğan's economic policies have led to rising prices, impacting visitors, making Turkey less affordable than before.
However, Akyaka stands as a testament to the country's enduring charm. It defies categorization and offers more reasonable prices when catering primarily to domestic tourists. One such gem is the Azmak Çorba Salonu, where fresh-baked pide, grilled chicken, and a tangy parsley salad with sumac cost around £30 for two.
Akyaka may not boast late-night cocktail bars, Michelin-star restaurants, or luxurious spa resorts, which are now prevalent in Turkey. But it enchants with its unpolished, unpretentious beauty. It's about savoring Turkish coffee and simit for breakfast while reading the Daily Sabah, playing backgammon on the jetty in the afternoon, and sipping ice-cold Efes as the sun sets over the iridescent blue and silver Gökova Bay. Akyaka is a place that makes you wonder why you'd ever want to explore elsewhere in Turkey. Who knows, it might even inspire you to take up knitting!
